Part 9 Swaffham and her neighbours (part 2)

The second part of this trip, takes us closer to Swaffham and away from Thetford forest. Here we see more of the American 8th Airforce and it's influence. Our first stop is a little village called North Pickenham, a station with a terrible tale to tell.

RAF North Pickenham (Station 143)

Bunker of South Pickenham

If approaching from the south, you will pass through South Pickenham first. Follow the leafy road toward the village, but keep a sharp eye open for amongst the trees are a series of bunkers and other buildings laid down as South Pickenham Decoy Site. These bunkers are now well overgrown and visible only by their tell tale air vents and domed shape. This site was developed so well, it that had its own AA guns and attracted a lot of Luftwaffe attention during it's life; some 200+ bombs being dropped on it. Some of these bunkers are easily accessible being a few feet from the road side but as always, caution is the key word when visiting.

Operations block

Moving further on, take a left and you pass a small collection of buildings on the right hand side, These are probably the operations block and the store for the American  Norden M7 bomb sight. In a very poor state of repair, they once played a major role in the American offencive over Nazi Germany and there must be many stories held within their crumbling and decaying walls.

Continue past the buildings and you arrive at a T junction. Turning right will take you to the airfield now an industrial site and turkey farm. Access from here is limited and private. Instead turn left, follow the road along and then join the B1077. Turn right and drive for a mile or two, the airfield is on your right. A suitable parking space allows views across the field where is enormity can be truly understood. Now containing many turkey sheds along it's runways, little of the original site remains.Wind turbines have replaced the

Ordnance sheds marking the bomb dump.

propellers of the Liberators of the 856. 857, 858 and 859th, bomb squadrons of the 492nd bomb group; and latterly the  852, 853, 854 855th squadrons of the 491st bomb group, both of the 8th Airforce. One hanger remains and ordnance huts mark the location of the bomb dumb, these can still be seen in the foreground.The tower was demolished many years ago (http://www.controltowers.co.uk/N/North_Pickenham.htm) but stood opposite you and to the right.North Pickenham may truly fit the description of 'Ghost' airfield, as it's checkered history has one of the worst fatality records of the whole 8th Airforce. Handed over to the Americans in May 1944, it was the 77th and final one to be so. It saw many operations. On May 18th it saw 8 aircraft shot down or blow up in operations on Brunswick.

North Pickenham hanger

In June, the unit formed part of a 1400 bomber raid on Pollitz and Osterburg, and badly protected, they lost all but one aircraft, it only escaping through having engine trouble and returning to base before getting to the target. Finally, in July a further 12 aircraft were downed by enemy aircraft. Along with other missions in August, the group saw a loss of 57 aircraft in only 64 operations, this marking the end and disbandment of the 492nd. In it's place and new to North Pickenham, came the 491st. Quite the reverse, in terms of an operational record, it carried on with great successes to the end of the war. Only on one occasion, November 1944, were losses heavy, 15 out of 27 aircraft being lost to enemy action. The remaining crews

Memorial in the nearby village.

pressed on to the target, earning the Distinguished unit Citation. After the group left North Pickenham, no other flying squadrons were based here either American or RAF, but a brief residency of Thor missiles during the early part of the cold war saw it brought back to life momentarily. Finally a reprieve in 1965 saw testing of the Kestrel VTOL aircraft which of course became famous as the Harrier, used world wide. A memorial to the servicemen who flew from North Pickenham, lays silently in the village on the edge of a new housing development, wreaths from nearby RAF Lakenheath enforce the link between the American Airforce and Norfolk's flying history.

On leaving the desolate views of North Pickenham, we travel South East toward Watton.

RAF Watton (Station 376)

Part of the peri track.

RAF Watton sits on the edge of Watton town and was once a large bustling airfield with a quiet but distinguished history.

Built in the late 1930s, Watton originally housed Blenheims used for training bombers, coastal patrols and the ill fated day-light raids. 82 Squadron was one squadron that suffered greatly from this. On two operations, all but one aircraft were lost and this helped lead to Blenheims being withdrawn from front line service. Watton was then reduced to mainly training operations. Then, in the mid part of the war, the USAAF took over, renaming it Station 376. This required extensive redevelopment to be able to accommodate not only the large bombers required to reach Germany, but for the

The fence crosses a hard standing.

3rd Strategic Air Depot. They had the unenviable task of recovering both crashed aircraft and repairing those damaged in battle. Primarily B24s, the task was so great that the site became an airfield in its own right and was renamed by the Americans as Neaton (Station 505). Today, HMP Wayland sits on this site and there is no visible reminder of its activity.

Watton became synonymous with reconnaissance, surveillance and Electronic countermeasure (ECM) activities. A visit by the famous 'Carpetbaggers' the special operations group designed to support French resistance operations saw the black Liberator's fly regular missions from here. Later B26 Marauders operated from here dropping 'Chaff' and conducting other reconnaissance operations.

Housing is taking over.

This ECM activity continued post war too. For some 20 years, a variety of aircraft including: the B17, Mosquito, Wellington, Domine, Lincoln, Anson, Proctor, Canberra, Meteor, Sea Fury, Firefly, Venom and many others resided here in the development of ECM and radio research and training. Also, during a short period 1959 - 1963 Blood hound missiles were located here as part of 263 Squadron for airfield defence. Eventually, during the 1970s the airfield fell into decline with active units being pulled out and moved elsewhere. Eastern and latterly Border Radar became the only 'operational' activity on the site and even these were moved in the early 1990s signalling the demise of the airfield as an active base.

Part of the Eastern Radar complex

Today the perimeter tracks, runways and hard standings support nothing more than housing. Only a small amount of the track remains with a small wire fence being the only defence to the onslaught of development. The original 4 "C" type hangers have been demolished as were the two control towers, one of which was built to support the new jet era with the traditional glass top.  Some minor buildings remain surrounded by the housing, but these are few and far between, and even their future is uncertain.

Accommodation buildings

Driving round the site, you notice how every road is named after an aircraft, Liberator, Maurder etc synonymous of those operating from here. Various concrete remains poke through the undergrowth and make this part of the site rather untidy - how long before they too disappear.

The site is split by the main road with much of the admin buildings (NAFFI and accommodation blocks) remaining on one side and the airfield the other. Some of these buildings are in use by civilian operators and as such have been well preserved, others such as the technical site, have not been so lucky and have become very run down and in high states of disrepair. As for the airfield itself, two small memorials 'guard' the entrance to the development.

Blenheim memorial.

On the one side a bent propeller recovered from a crashed Blenheim (R3800) shot down over Aalborg on 13 August 1940, and the other commemorates the 25th Bomb group USAAF. On the housing site itself, a further memorial commemorates the 455th AAA 'The Rabbs' who were given the task of defending Britain's airfields against the Luftwaffe.

Memorial to the 25th Bomb group.

Owned by STANTA for a period of time and used for air mobile training, the odd Hercules or Army helicopter might have been seen here. However , the current status is unknown, but I'm sure it wont be long before any of these remaining remnants are lost beneath the developers digger.

Dilapidated buildings still stand.

NB: There is a museum commemorating the lives of the Watton personnel open on limited days only, details can be found at: http://www.rafwatton.info/SHQ/Whythis/tabid/57/Default.aspx Further technical information can also be found at: http://www.abct.org.uk/airfields/watton

Part 8 Swaffham and it's neighbours (Part 1)

One thing that has struck me since starting this project, is how quickly developments take over and any remnants of our heritage disappear. However, deep digging often finds small reminders of those dark days of World War II and the people who's lives were touched by them.The differences between predecessor's visits from only a few years ago and today, can be quite stark.

Whilst visiting the Swaffham (Norfolk) area, this was perhaps more prominent than in many of the other places I'd been. Like other sections, this area was predominately American in nature, forming the back bone of the USAAF, fighter and bomber squadrons of the 8th Airforce.Our first stop is RAF Methwold. 

RAF Methwold.

Located between Downham Market and Thetford, Methwold is a small rural setting on the edge of  Thetford Forest. It's village sign and memorial, remind the passer by of it's strong airforce links - a Lockheed Ventura taking off over the village church. Methwold was actually built as a satellite for RAF Feltwell and as such, had no initial squadrons of it's own. Being of grass construction, Wellingtons would be dispersed here, for safety, from nearby RAF Feltwell and were often seen as a result. Two squadrons of Venturas finally arrived in 1942, 464 and 487 sqns, comprising of New Zealand and Australian crews. The

One of the T2 hangars.

Venturas earned themselves some unsavoury names due to their poor performance, and losses were often high. On a diversionary raiding party, eleven out of twelve (one retuning due to engine trouble) were lost over enemy territory and one surviving pilot, Squadron Leader Leonard Trent, was taken to Stalag Luft III where he participated in the 'Great Escape'. On his return to England at the end of the war, he was awarded the Victoria Cross for his action. Later in the war, concrete runways were built upgrading Methwold to a heavy bomber station in preparation for the forthcoming Lancasters and Stirlings of 149, 218 and 207 squadrons. A quantity of Horsas were also stored in probably in preparation for D-day.

Perimeter track looking south

Main runway looking NW

Today, Methwold is agricultural, with some of the buildings being used for farming purposes or light industry, The airfield is split by the main road, B1112, with the industrial units (stores and huts) being on the northerly side.A large T2 hangar stores equipment and other farm related products and the main runway, built later in the war, is also used for storage. The perimeter track allows access to the runway past the hangar to an area of development further south to where the turret trainers and the Gymnasium once stood. Factories have replaced further T2 hangars but little else is left visible. Local information and further detail is available from the local Methwold history group. http://www.methwoldhistorygroup.org.uk/mhg_raf_methwold.html 

Desert Rats memorial.   On leaving Methwold, I travelled through part of Thetford Forest and came across a memorial that I didn't know existed. A (Churchill I believe) tank sits proudly at what was the entrance to the camp where the 'Rats' were stationed prior to the D-day landings.

Desert Rats memorial

This, according to the plaque, is the only time they were stationed in the UK before being amongst the first to land on Gold beach on that fateful day in June 1944. A map guides you round the camp on concrete pathways pointing out notable points of interest, buildings etc that still exist today. A poignant reminder and worthy of a short break on the journey today.

Desert Rats memorial

RAF Bodney (station 141)

Currently an Army training base, the site of RAF Bodney is in a corner of the STANTA grounds and therefore off limits to the public. Signs warning of MOD activity are everywhere but some evidence of the airfield can be seen from the adjacent B1108. The original water tower and pump still serve the camp, a few bunkers exist but there are no hard surfaces left. Another airfield that was designed as a satellite, it saw a range of RAF aircraft dispersed across it's grounds. Blenheims (from Watton) and Venturas (from Methwold) were often seen amongst the trees. It wasn't until 1943, when the USAAF took over bringing in P-47s of the 352nd fighter group for long range fighter escort, strafing runs and ground attack duties, that the field was heavily used.

Original water tower

In 1944 these aircraft were exchanged for the infamous P-51 Mustangs. The group had mixed fortunes during their time here. Whilst acting on escort duties for a raid over Brunswick, they shot down 27 enemy BF-109s and FW-190s with the loss of only one aircraft. This action earned them a Distinguished Unit Citation. At one point, the US 8th airforce highest scorer, Major George Preddy flew from here until he was shot down by friendly fire on Christmas day, 1944.

Bodney bunkers

A further tragedy was to bestow the unit on D-day when a P-51 piloted by Lieutenant Bob Frascotti struck the tower killing him in the process. A new tower was built in a different location which existed for some considerable time (and may even still be there today). The unit gained themselves the unsavoury name "The Blue nosed bastards of Bodney" because of the blue nosed Mustangs they flew with such determination and fever. Many of the buildings were pulled down in 2013 due to vandalism and increased use for Rave parties, little now stands visible telling the incredible stories of this forgotten airfield.  

N.B. A P-51C was assembled at Duxford in May 2013 for a tribute flypast to Frascotti, a video of the  memorial fly past is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AviMh1Vrvow There are also links to the the 352nd at http://www.352ndfightergroup.com/ with a link to the superb 'Bluenoser' magazine.

Part 7 - North West Norfolk

The American and RAF Bomber command influences extended far beyond the boundaries of the Midlands. Norfolk saw a huge influx of aircrew, staff, troops and associated hardware. Many of the airfields built in East Anglia were destined to last only a few years, basically as long as the war would last. However, like their midland counterparts, many would go on beyond that time and have a lasting effect on the locals and the landscape of Norfolk and Suffolk.

This trip goes to the area of North West Norfolk, with the boundary of Cambridgeshire. Starting on the fringes, there is a little known airfield, yet its history is one that should never be forgotten. Not only did many bomber crews leave here never to return, but not one but TWO crew members were given the highest award for bravery in the face of death. It is of course RAF Downham Market (Bexwell).

RAF Downham Market.

Located in the corner of the now A10 and A1122 little remains of the airfield bar a few technical buildings used by local industry. Originally opened in 1942 Stirlings from 218 squadron and Mosquitos from 608 squadron were based here, along with other several other units until the base closed in 1946. At it’s peak, Downham boasted seven T2 hangers, none of which survive today. The three tarmac runways were dug up to supply hardcore for the A10 but if you look carefully, odd parts of the perimeter track can been seen as roadways or paths. Certainly from the air, the general outline is partially visible. 

View toward the peri track.

At ground level, the discerning eye and a general appreciation of airfield structure and layout, suggest a presence of something more interesting. Huts, whilst in very poor condition, poke through overgrown trees and bushes and provide shelter and storage facilities for the local industry. The condition of windows and brickwork suggest that time is gradually running out for this once thriving airfield. The original fence, always a bit of a give away, rather precariously surrounds the area, and concrete roadways lead the eye to what was the perimeter track and the runways of yesteryear. The RAFs pathfinder group, 635 squadron, flew daring missions in Lancasters, and a site dedicated to the crew and personnel of the squadron can be found at http://635squadron.com/. A superb collection of photographs and personal accounts bring their memories alive.

The end of one runway, North.

Further examination reveals what would have been the location of the end of the North / South runway. Now built upon, some original buildings still remain in use albeit only just and for the time being.

Dilapidated buildings

Across the road from the airfield is Bexwell church. Here a small memorial is placed telling the stories of two heroic and brave crew members. Flight Sergeant Arthur Aaron, who whilst severely injured, unable to speak or use his right arm, managed to assist the bomb aimer in landing their stricken Stirling in the dark with the undercarriage up.He later died from his wounds. The second, Acting Squadron Leader Ian Bazalgetts, flew his stricken Lancaster as ‘master pathfinder’ to successfully mark and bomb their target. He managed with enough strength, to successfully land the plane after allowing some of his crew to bale out. Unfortunately fate dealt a terrible blow and his plane exploded, killing him. Both men were posthumously awarded the Victoria Cross for their actions.

Memorial plaque.

Whilst standing reading these dedications, two Tornados from the nearby RAF Marham, flew over, a fitting tribute, to a station originally built to serve as a satellite for the very same airfield.

 

RAF Barton Bendish.

On leaving Downham Market, travel East toward the A47 and Norwich. A few miles along, is a field, unmarked and to all intense and purposes, insignificant. It was however, believed to have been served by 26 and 268 squadrons for a brief time. Little exists about its existence or purpose other than recordings in the writings of RAF Marham personnel. Rumours state a ‘huge military (HQ) bunker’ and hard standings, but these are thought to be farmers concrete pans, abundant across the area. http://www.heritage.norfolk.gov.uk/record-details?uid=MNF20129 No physical buildings (other than pillboxes) were ever thought to have been built and the airfield it was thought, was a ‘scatter airfield’ designed to store arms from the parent airfield (in this case RAF Marham) in case of attack. No other signs or records seem to exist of the airfield. Another case of an airfield disappearing!

RAF Marham.

Hidden away.

 No journey of this nature would be complete without stopping at an active airfield. In this case RAF Marham. An abundant amount of information and photographs exist about Marham and I won’t dwell on it here, but for the enthusiast good photographs can be taken from a number of sites around the airfield, with care and caution. Currently home to the RAF’s Tornado squadron, American built F-35s are soon to be stationed here replacing the Harrier as both RAF and Naval strike capability. I will leave you to decide the merits of that one.

On leaving Marham, continue East joining the A47. Driving along the road you enter the preserve of the USAAF. A huge number of airfields exist here, both bomber and fighter. Today we visit one that opened as a satellite to Swanton Morley, June 1941 and was home to Bostons of 2 group. Station 120.

RAF Attlebridge (USAAF. Station 120)

Hard runways were not built here until 1943, and in March 1944, the airfield

Bomb shelters hidden in the shrub.

became home to the 466^th Bomb group operating the 784th Bombardment Squadron (code T9), the 785^th Bombardment Squadron (code2U), the 786th Bombardment Squadron (code U8) and the 787th Bombardment Squadron (code 6L). Blenheims, Bostons, Mitchells and Liberators all played a role from this airfield over a period of time. It passed hands between the American and British forces on several occasions as units moved on elsewhere. The main runways and perimeter track of the airfield are very much evident and in good state. The three extensive concrete tracks now used to store turkeys. As this is private ground, access is not permitted, but good views across the

tracks can be gained from the road. There were minimal visible signs of buildings, but the control tower was extended and used at one point for the management of the site. http://www.controltowers.co.uk/a/attlebridge.htm More careful probing may reveal more than broken huts and bomb shelters laying waste amongst the trees. 

Looking along one of the runways.

It is possible to drive round the entire site, being only feet from the perimeter track at any time. Amongst these trees evidence can be seen of the airfields outer ring. Odd derelict buildings lay swamped by vegetation and trees. At entrances to the site,

good views along the runways give perspective of the size of the place. Hard standings and concrete pans lay on either side of the road, now used to store sugar beet and other produce from the local farmer.

As with other sites, its easy to picture a bustling base, aircraft rumbling along preparing to take off on what may be their last flight. Where man once stood, turkeys now breed, a sense of irony if you dig deep enough. Driving round, located at the south western point between the ends of the two longest runways, is a memorial dedicated to the personnel of the airfield who served and gave their lives.

A well kept memorial, it portrays a Liberator of the 466^th, 2^nd Division, 8^th Air force, the ‘Flying deck’ and the badges of each of the four bombardment squadrons. It tells of the 231 combat missions over Normandy, France, the Rhineland and the Ardennes. Dedicated in 1992, 50 years after the end of hostilities, a little reminder of those brave souls, whose home is now a turkey farm and who gave

Memorial to the 466th.

their all from this small part of Norfolk. After leaving Attlebridge, we move to a more recent closure and one of the RAF’s biggest airfields. RAF Coltishall. 

RAF Coltishall.

Built in 1939, Coltishall was originally designed as bomber base, but turned to house fighters soon after it’s creation. Used by 66 squadron, it played a major part in the Battle of Britain. Being home later to night fighter Defiants and Mosquitos, a role it continued well into the cold war with Venoms and famously the Jaguars. Again there is much information about Coltishall around and it’s history is both

Station badge.

interesting and well documented. At present, it is in generally good condition, although buildings are starting to deteriorate and nature is fighting a hard battle. The government have since opened a prison on the site (HMP Bure) and access is not permitted, (the man on the gate is very helpful and polite), but views can be found from various points around the field if persistence is strong enough.From one vantage point near the top end of the runway, you can see the runway lights, distant buildings and structures that form the airfield blocks. Standing by the crash gate, looking down the length of the runway, you can imagine the Jaguars and fast jets being practice scrambled and roaring off into the skies of Britain in search of invading soviet aircraft. I remember well seeing Jaguars and Phantoms racing across our skies, but at Coltishall it’s a sight I won’t unfortunately ever get to see. The Control tower now stands idle, overlooking the single runway, whilst further up you can see the main hanger and admin block (I believe) with the proud lettering ‘Royal Air Force Coltishall’ still prevalent. Along side are the badges of some of the squadrons based there. The front of the base used to be dignified, grand and over seen by an E.E. Lightning. Now they are all gone, even the guard room is falling into disrepair. A small metal sign says ‘Welcome to former RAF Coltishall’ as poor recognition of Britain’s flying history.

At the northern end of the runway, just out side the perimeter, is a small chapel dedicated to the people who gave their lives whilst at Coltishall. A small, peaceful place, that holds some surprises. Within the military headstones, there are several German headstones. Crew members shot down  during those terrible years of the Second World War. A stark reminder that causalities occurred on both sides, and that their ‘young men’ died over foreign shores as well as ours. 

I found this 25 minute video, made to celebrate the history of RAF Coltishall, I thought you may like it, or even know someone in it. http://www.eafa.org.uk/catalogue/209623

From Coltishall, there are many more places worth a visit, within  a stones through numerous bases still lay dormant, regrettably, all quiet and fighting nature rather than some foe from far across the waters. Gradually our flying heritage is being lost, and it would seem, that in this part of the world at least, they are being ‘preserved’ through secondary use. A fate better  than total decay.

Footnote: from here, I also visited the City of Norwich Aviation Museum based on the outskirts of Horsham St Faith (Now Norwich airport) itself a former RAF base. A delightful little museum with many relics, pictures and stories from around the area. It features many of the bases and units mentioned above and is well worth a visit, http://www.cnam.co.uk/ . There is also a second museum, Norfolk and Suffolk Air Museum within easy travel from here http://www.aviationmuseum.net/ , it too houses aircraft from around the area and is well worth a visit. 

More pictures from the above are supplemented on Flickr search for 'halfpintpictures'

Part 6 - 'American Ghosts'

The American Air force played a major part in our aviation heritage. During the war many thousands, took off from airfields around the Eastern Region. Many never came home. These places have left an indomitable mark on not only our landscape, but the hearts of those they touched whilst here.

During this trail, I visited 5 airfields, there is a further sixth that I have also been to (Glatton now known as Conington) but that will be added later after a more detailed visit. Most of what was, is gone, and in terms of seeing things, there is really very little. However, the most determined of ‘expeditionists’, armed with thick gloves and big boots, will be able to find some evidence at some locations. It may be advisable to go in winter / autumn when there is less vegetation, rather than the summer as I did! The one thing on this trip that really struck me, was the close proximity of each one, literally only a handful of miles between them in some cases. The sight as they all took off and linked must have been incredible!

Kimbolton.

Kimbolton looking onto the airfield.

We start not far from the busy A14 to the south west of Graffham Water. Perched on top of the hill, as many of these are, is Station 117 - Kimbolton.

Kimbolton's Perimeter Track

Having a short life, it was home to the 379^th Bombardment group of the Mighty 8^th. Flying some 330 mission in B-17s. The site is split in two by the main road which uses part of the original perimeter track for it’s base. To one side is where the runways and dispersal pens would have been, to the other side the main hangers, admin blocks, fuel storage and squadron quarters. The former is now open fields used for agriculture and the later a well kept and busy industrial site. What was the main runway is crossed by this road where there is a kart track.

Memorial book listing those that never came home.

At the main entrance to the industrial site, is a well kept memorial. Two flags representing the two nations, stand aside a plaque showing the layout of the field as was, with airfield detail added.  Behind this, and almost un-noticeable, is a neat wooden box with a visitors book and a file documenting all those who left from here never to return. There are a considerable number of pages full of names and personal detail – a moving document. One of the B17 pilots, Lt. Kermit D. Wooldridge, of the 525th Bomb Squadron, 379th Bomb Group, 8th Air Force kept a diary of his raids, and many of the crew members mentioned in the memorial book appear in his diaries. These are currently being published by his daughter, and can be seen at https://sites.google.com/site/ww2pilotsdiary/  They tell of the raids, the crews and detailed events that took place over the skies of occupied Europe from June 29th 1943.

This is a lovely place to sit (benches are there) and contemplate what must have been a magnificent sight all those years ago. It made me think of the part in the film ‘Memphis Belle’, where the crew were sitting listening to the poetry just prior to departure, how many young men also stood here ‘listening to poetry’. The control tower would have stood almost opposite where you are now, with views across an enormous expanse. Here they would have stood 'counting them back'. Like everything else, it has gone and the site is now ‘peaceful’.

Grafton Underwood.

Dedication window

Leaving Kimbolton, crossing the A14 toward Corby is Station 106 – Grafton Underwood. This site is remarkable not only for the location, but it is the first and last airfield to see bombing action over Europe by the USAAF. Before you get to the airfield, you must visit the local church. Passing through the village you’ll see a signpost for the church, park here and walk up. Approaching the church, roughly from the East, you see a dark window which is difficult to make out. However, enter the church and look back, you will see the most amazing stained glass window ever. The vibrant colours strike quite hard. This commemorates the 384^th Bombardment group of the 8^th Air force. Next to it, someone has placed a handwritten note with the picture of a very young man Thomas K Kohlhaas and

Dedication to the crew of "sons o'fun"

the crew of B-17 ‘43-37713’ “sons o’fun”. It states that he, along with 3 others were murdered by German civilians presumably after bailing out of their stricken aircraft. This is a very moving and personal place to be.

When you leave the church, look on the wall of the porch and you will see two dedications. These list the location and names of trees, dedicated to the personnel of the mighty 8^th , that have replaced the runways on the airfield. Unfortunately these are on private land and are not accessible.

The memorial is bottom left by the road

Leave the church, turn left into the village, following the stream and then turn left up the hill. The memorial is on your right. Like most American memorials of the USAAF, it has the two flags aside the memorial which is well kept. When I visited, the keeper, a very interesting man, was there and we chatted for ages. The memorial stands on what was the 6000ft main runway and when you look behind you, you see what is left of it. Otherwise, like the others visited here, the remains have gone and it is open agriculture once more.

Grafton memorial

Grafton, like Kimbolton, is split by the road. Leaving the memorial drive back to the village, turn left and follow the road. Along on the right is the admin, crew, storage etc and the left the main airfield with its runways and dispersal pens. What is left of the main entrance, a large blue gate can be seen as you pass. Odd patches of concrete can also be seen through the thick trees but little else.

The remains of the runway

There a little further along, passed the equine sign, is another blue gate. Park here. This is the entrance to Grafton Park, a public space, and what was the main thoroughfare to the mess, barracks and squadron quarters. Grafton housed some 3000+ personnel of which some 1600 never returned. It is immense! Walking along the path, you can just see the Battle Headquarters, poking out of the trees. This site is very overgrown. The roads remain and are clearly laid out, some having been recovered with tarmac, but careful observations will see the concrete beneath. Keep on the ‘Broadway’ and you will pass a number of side roads until you come to the hub. This forms a central star, off from which were the aptly named: ‘Foxy’ cinema, mess clubs and hospitals. Careful observations and exploring - there are many hidden ditches and pits - will show foundations and the odd brick wall from the various buildings that remain. A nice touch to the hub, is that it is now a grassed area with picnic tables.

The Hub, now a picnic area.

You do lose a sense of this being an airfield; the trees and vegetation have taken over quite virulently and hidden what little evidence remains. Exploring the area, you will find some evidence, but you have to look hard. Walk back along the Broadway, and take the first turn left. Keep an open to the right, and you will see other small buildings, the officers’ quarters and shelters. Again, very careful footing will allow some exploration, but there is little to gain.

Considering the size of Grafton Underwood, and then fact that 3000 men and women lived here, there is little to see for the casual eye. A beautiful place to walk, Grafton’s secrets are well hidden; perhaps too well hidden, but maybe the fact that it is so peaceful is as a result and great service to those that fought in that terrible battle above the skies of Europe directly from here.

Deenthorpe.

Leaving Grafton behind, turn right and proceed in a northerly direction.

Deenthorpe memorial.

If you pass through Weldon, I believe there is another stained glass window in the church. But unlike Grafton’s, the church is sadly locked and the window therefore more difficult to see. Deenthorpe saw action by 4 squadrons from the 401^st Bombardment group, reputedly the ‘The best damned outfit in the USAAF’ They flew 254 combat missions and received two Distinguished unit Citations, had the best bombing accuracy of the mighty 8^th and the lowest loss ratio.

Whilst the village of Deenthorpe is off the A43, take the smaller A427 Corby to Oundle road toward Oundle. On A few miles along on your left is the airfield. Unlike most of the others, this is still activity here in the form of micro lights, using part of the original runway. Until recently, 1996, the original control tower stood proud, visible from the main road, directly behind the memorial. Now gone, there is little else to see bar a few stretches of tarmac and the odd brick constructions. Access to this is restricted, prior permission being needed before entering the site, so other than what you can see from the road there is little left here.

Modern activity on Deenthorpe.

The memorial is again flanked by two flags, is neat and well cared for. The runway layout is depicted on the memorial stone as it proudly states it achievements. I am led to believe the ‘Wheatsheaf’ pub further along was the haunt of many an American airman and has a 401 bar with photos and memorabilia. I was not able to visit unfortunately and cannot therefore verify this. Another day perhaps!

Next we retrace our steps back, turn north along the A43 toward Stamford. A short distance you will pass a golf club and then see tourist signs to ‘Deene Park’. Follow this, all the way to the end. A long windy road, narrow in places, it takes you through small picturesque hamlets to a T junction. Directly opposite you, is the entrance and memorial to Spanhoe Lodge.

Spanhoe Lodge

Spanhoe Lodge - Guard room?

Spanhoe information board.

Station 493, Spanhoe Lodge, lived a short active life and was home to 4 squadrons of the 315^th  troop carrier group flying C47s. It took the American 82^nd airborne, 1^st Polish and British 6^th Airborne into Normandy for the D-Day landings, Arnhem’s ‘Market Garden’ and the Rhineland. An active airfield for small light aircraft works here are involved in aircraft maintenance and preservation work. The entrance to the site does not reflect the history. Again because it is active, your are clearly warned not to enter without permission! From here you can see small ‘recently’ erected buildings and hidden behind the thicket, what was presumably the gatehouse. The modern users inhabit a very small portion of the original airfield, using part of the perimeter track as a runway. Much of the remainder has been dug up in quarrying exercises. There are, I believe, numerous footpaths that surround the site, but like many, these are difficult to pass and don’t offer any major advantage to what is left.

Spanhoe Lodge Memorial

The memorial itself, consists of a modern board detailing the group and squadron codes, and a stone obelisk listing the names of those crew members who failed to come home. It is placed outside the entrance and is well cared for if not a little weathered.

Leaving Spanhoe behind, return to the main road, keeping the airfield to your left, and then once at the A43, turn right and then immediately left. Follow signs to Oundle and Kingscliffe.

Kingscliffe.

Kingscliffe memorial

Unlike the other airfields in the tour, Kingscliffe was a fighter airfield. Pass through the village out the other side, under the odd twin-arched bridge and then right. A few hundred yards along and the airfield is now on your right hand side. The memorial is here, flanked by the two flags. It is a more elaborate memorial, being made with the wing of a Spitfire on one side and the wing of a Mustang on the other. Various squadron badges are etched into the stone and as the weather takes it’s toll, these are gradually disappearing.

Kingscliffe buildings

Kingscliffe saw both the Spitfire and Mustangs fly from this site. The P-51s replacing the P-38 Lightnings used originally. Looking behind the memorial you can see a number of brick defence buildings enshrouded in trees and bushes. Move along the road to your right and there is the main gate. Stating that it is an airfield, it doesn’t encourage entrance. However, walk or drive a little further and there is a bridal way that allows access to the site. Walking along around the edge of the airfield, you can see hidden amongst the thorn bushes round pill boxes, dispersal pens and air raid shelters. These can be accessed with careful treading. A considerable number of these exist close to the road and so extensive travelling is not required for the more ‘informal’ investigation.

Inside the shelter

Like many sites of it’s age, Kingscliffe buildings are overgrown, indeed entering them you can see how the roofs have become detached in many cases, and mature trees now the only inhabitants where personnel once stood. The control tower is still visible, but again it would be better to do this in the ‘lower growth’ seasons as it was very difficult to locate at this time.

The main part of the airfield is agriculture, and it can be seen from further back, why this site was chosen as the views across the landscape toward Peterborough and the south are stunning.

Overgrown buildings

There are a number of Internet sites, with more/better photographs than mine and they offer a much greater quantity of detail. However, not being fond of arrest, I tend to refrain from trespassing very far.

Kingscliffe concludes the tour, however, if you return back along the road, turn right away from the village, you will eventually find yourself sitting opposite one of the crash exits of RAF Wittering, the main station to which Kingscliffe was built as a satellite. Also along here, is a remnant of RAF Collyweston, an airfield absorbed into Wittering at the end of the war when it expanded ready for the V – force bomber aircraft and later the Harriers. Now closed to flying due to government cutbacks, it houses an army detachment and a small RAF detachment for maintenance duties only.

Much of the evidence from the American participation in the Air War of the Second World War has now disappeared, being swallowed up by natures determination to regain what was originally hers. Agriculture and small businesses have clung on to the remainder, leaving little to see. In some ways, and I touched on this earlier, the fact that peace has now taken over what were bustling camps of 3000+ personnel, the roar of four engined bombers laden with high explosives or troop carriers taking scared young men to the killing fields of Europe, is a reflection on their bravery and dedication. These areas are simply peaceful now because of the men that served, lived and died here and whilst they are now gone, maybe their ghosts remain.