Part 6 - 'American Ghosts'

The American Air force played a major part in our aviation heritage. During the war many thousands, took off from airfields around the Eastern Region. Many never came home. These places have left an indomitable mark on not only our landscape, but the hearts of those they touched whilst here.

During this trail, I visited 5 airfields, there is a further sixth that I have also been to (Glatton now known as Conington) but that will be added later after a more detailed visit. Most of what was, is gone, and in terms of seeing things, there is really very little. However, the most determined of ‘expeditionists’, armed with thick gloves and big boots, will be able to find some evidence at some locations. It may be advisable to go in winter / autumn when there is less vegetation, rather than the summer as I did! The one thing on this trip that really struck me, was the close proximity of each one, literally only a handful of miles between them in some cases. The sight as they all took off and linked must have been incredible!

Kimbolton.

Kimbolton looking onto the airfield.

We start not far from the busy A14 to the south west of Graffham Water. Perched on top of the hill, as many of these are, is Station 117 - Kimbolton.

Kimbolton's Perimeter Track

Having a short life, it was home to the 379^th Bombardment group of the Mighty 8^th. Flying some 330 mission in B-17s. The site is split in two by the main road which uses part of the original perimeter track for it’s base. To one side is where the runways and dispersal pens would have been, to the other side the main hangers, admin blocks, fuel storage and squadron quarters. The former is now open fields used for agriculture and the later a well kept and busy industrial site. What was the main runway is crossed by this road where there is a kart track.

Memorial book listing those that never came home.

At the main entrance to the industrial site, is a well kept memorial. Two flags representing the two nations, stand aside a plaque showing the layout of the field as was, with airfield detail added.  Behind this, and almost un-noticeable, is a neat wooden box with a visitors book and a file documenting all those who left from here never to return. There are a considerable number of pages full of names and personal detail – a moving document. One of the B17 pilots, Lt. Kermit D. Wooldridge, of the 525th Bomb Squadron, 379th Bomb Group, 8th Air Force kept a diary of his raids, and many of the crew members mentioned in the memorial book appear in his diaries. These are currently being published by his daughter, and can be seen at https://sites.google.com/site/ww2pilotsdiary/  They tell of the raids, the crews and detailed events that took place over the skies of occupied Europe from June 29th 1943.

This is a lovely place to sit (benches are there) and contemplate what must have been a magnificent sight all those years ago. It made me think of the part in the film ‘Memphis Belle’, where the crew were sitting listening to the poetry just prior to departure, how many young men also stood here ‘listening to poetry’. The control tower would have stood almost opposite where you are now, with views across an enormous expanse. Here they would have stood 'counting them back'. Like everything else, it has gone and the site is now ‘peaceful’.

Grafton Underwood.

Dedication window

Leaving Kimbolton, crossing the A14 toward Corby is Station 106 – Grafton Underwood. This site is remarkable not only for the location, but it is the first and last airfield to see bombing action over Europe by the USAAF. Before you get to the airfield, you must visit the local church. Passing through the village you’ll see a signpost for the church, park here and walk up. Approaching the church, roughly from the East, you see a dark window which is difficult to make out. However, enter the church and look back, you will see the most amazing stained glass window ever. The vibrant colours strike quite hard. This commemorates the 384^th Bombardment group of the 8^th Air force. Next to it, someone has placed a handwritten note with the picture of a very young man Thomas K Kohlhaas and

Dedication to the crew of "sons o'fun"

the crew of B-17 ‘43-37713’ “sons o’fun”. It states that he, along with 3 others were murdered by German civilians presumably after bailing out of their stricken aircraft. This is a very moving and personal place to be.

When you leave the church, look on the wall of the porch and you will see two dedications. These list the location and names of trees, dedicated to the personnel of the mighty 8^th , that have replaced the runways on the airfield. Unfortunately these are on private land and are not accessible.

The memorial is bottom left by the road

Leave the church, turn left into the village, following the stream and then turn left up the hill. The memorial is on your right. Like most American memorials of the USAAF, it has the two flags aside the memorial which is well kept. When I visited, the keeper, a very interesting man, was there and we chatted for ages. The memorial stands on what was the 6000ft main runway and when you look behind you, you see what is left of it. Otherwise, like the others visited here, the remains have gone and it is open agriculture once more.

Grafton memorial

Grafton, like Kimbolton, is split by the road. Leaving the memorial drive back to the village, turn left and follow the road. Along on the right is the admin, crew, storage etc and the left the main airfield with its runways and dispersal pens. What is left of the main entrance, a large blue gate can be seen as you pass. Odd patches of concrete can also be seen through the thick trees but little else.

The remains of the runway

There a little further along, passed the equine sign, is another blue gate. Park here. This is the entrance to Grafton Park, a public space, and what was the main thoroughfare to the mess, barracks and squadron quarters. Grafton housed some 3000+ personnel of which some 1600 never returned. It is immense! Walking along the path, you can just see the Battle Headquarters, poking out of the trees. This site is very overgrown. The roads remain and are clearly laid out, some having been recovered with tarmac, but careful observations will see the concrete beneath. Keep on the ‘Broadway’ and you will pass a number of side roads until you come to the hub. This forms a central star, off from which were the aptly named: ‘Foxy’ cinema, mess clubs and hospitals. Careful observations and exploring - there are many hidden ditches and pits - will show foundations and the odd brick wall from the various buildings that remain. A nice touch to the hub, is that it is now a grassed area with picnic tables.

The Hub, now a picnic area.

You do lose a sense of this being an airfield; the trees and vegetation have taken over quite virulently and hidden what little evidence remains. Exploring the area, you will find some evidence, but you have to look hard. Walk back along the Broadway, and take the first turn left. Keep an open to the right, and you will see other small buildings, the officers’ quarters and shelters. Again, very careful footing will allow some exploration, but there is little to gain.

Considering the size of Grafton Underwood, and then fact that 3000 men and women lived here, there is little to see for the casual eye. A beautiful place to walk, Grafton’s secrets are well hidden; perhaps too well hidden, but maybe the fact that it is so peaceful is as a result and great service to those that fought in that terrible battle above the skies of Europe directly from here.

Deenthorpe.

Leaving Grafton behind, turn right and proceed in a northerly direction.

Deenthorpe memorial.

If you pass through Weldon, I believe there is another stained glass window in the church. But unlike Grafton’s, the church is sadly locked and the window therefore more difficult to see. Deenthorpe saw action by 4 squadrons from the 401^st Bombardment group, reputedly the ‘The best damned outfit in the USAAF’ They flew 254 combat missions and received two Distinguished unit Citations, had the best bombing accuracy of the mighty 8^th and the lowest loss ratio.

Whilst the village of Deenthorpe is off the A43, take the smaller A427 Corby to Oundle road toward Oundle. On A few miles along on your left is the airfield. Unlike most of the others, this is still activity here in the form of micro lights, using part of the original runway. Until recently, 1996, the original control tower stood proud, visible from the main road, directly behind the memorial. Now gone, there is little else to see bar a few stretches of tarmac and the odd brick constructions. Access to this is restricted, prior permission being needed before entering the site, so other than what you can see from the road there is little left here.

Modern activity on Deenthorpe.

The memorial is again flanked by two flags, is neat and well cared for. The runway layout is depicted on the memorial stone as it proudly states it achievements. I am led to believe the ‘Wheatsheaf’ pub further along was the haunt of many an American airman and has a 401 bar with photos and memorabilia. I was not able to visit unfortunately and cannot therefore verify this. Another day perhaps!

Next we retrace our steps back, turn north along the A43 toward Stamford. A short distance you will pass a golf club and then see tourist signs to ‘Deene Park’. Follow this, all the way to the end. A long windy road, narrow in places, it takes you through small picturesque hamlets to a T junction. Directly opposite you, is the entrance and memorial to Spanhoe Lodge.

Spanhoe Lodge

Spanhoe Lodge - Guard room?

Spanhoe information board.

Station 493, Spanhoe Lodge, lived a short active life and was home to 4 squadrons of the 315^th  troop carrier group flying C47s. It took the American 82^nd airborne, 1^st Polish and British 6^th Airborne into Normandy for the D-Day landings, Arnhem’s ‘Market Garden’ and the Rhineland. An active airfield for small light aircraft works here are involved in aircraft maintenance and preservation work. The entrance to the site does not reflect the history. Again because it is active, your are clearly warned not to enter without permission! From here you can see small ‘recently’ erected buildings and hidden behind the thicket, what was presumably the gatehouse. The modern users inhabit a very small portion of the original airfield, using part of the perimeter track as a runway. Much of the remainder has been dug up in quarrying exercises. There are, I believe, numerous footpaths that surround the site, but like many, these are difficult to pass and don’t offer any major advantage to what is left.

Spanhoe Lodge Memorial

The memorial itself, consists of a modern board detailing the group and squadron codes, and a stone obelisk listing the names of those crew members who failed to come home. It is placed outside the entrance and is well cared for if not a little weathered.

Leaving Spanhoe behind, return to the main road, keeping the airfield to your left, and then once at the A43, turn right and then immediately left. Follow signs to Oundle and Kingscliffe.

Kingscliffe.

Kingscliffe memorial

Unlike the other airfields in the tour, Kingscliffe was a fighter airfield. Pass through the village out the other side, under the odd twin-arched bridge and then right. A few hundred yards along and the airfield is now on your right hand side. The memorial is here, flanked by the two flags. It is a more elaborate memorial, being made with the wing of a Spitfire on one side and the wing of a Mustang on the other. Various squadron badges are etched into the stone and as the weather takes it’s toll, these are gradually disappearing.

Kingscliffe buildings

Kingscliffe saw both the Spitfire and Mustangs fly from this site. The P-51s replacing the P-38 Lightnings used originally. Looking behind the memorial you can see a number of brick defence buildings enshrouded in trees and bushes. Move along the road to your right and there is the main gate. Stating that it is an airfield, it doesn’t encourage entrance. However, walk or drive a little further and there is a bridal way that allows access to the site. Walking along around the edge of the airfield, you can see hidden amongst the thorn bushes round pill boxes, dispersal pens and air raid shelters. These can be accessed with careful treading. A considerable number of these exist close to the road and so extensive travelling is not required for the more ‘informal’ investigation.

Inside the shelter

Like many sites of it’s age, Kingscliffe buildings are overgrown, indeed entering them you can see how the roofs have become detached in many cases, and mature trees now the only inhabitants where personnel once stood. The control tower is still visible, but again it would be better to do this in the ‘lower growth’ seasons as it was very difficult to locate at this time.

The main part of the airfield is agriculture, and it can be seen from further back, why this site was chosen as the views across the landscape toward Peterborough and the south are stunning.

Overgrown buildings

There are a number of Internet sites, with more/better photographs than mine and they offer a much greater quantity of detail. However, not being fond of arrest, I tend to refrain from trespassing very far.

Kingscliffe concludes the tour, however, if you return back along the road, turn right away from the village, you will eventually find yourself sitting opposite one of the crash exits of RAF Wittering, the main station to which Kingscliffe was built as a satellite. Also along here, is a remnant of RAF Collyweston, an airfield absorbed into Wittering at the end of the war when it expanded ready for the V – force bomber aircraft and later the Harriers. Now closed to flying due to government cutbacks, it houses an army detachment and a small RAF detachment for maintenance duties only.

Much of the evidence from the American participation in the Air War of the Second World War has now disappeared, being swallowed up by natures determination to regain what was originally hers. Agriculture and small businesses have clung on to the remainder, leaving little to see. In some ways, and I touched on this earlier, the fact that peace has now taken over what were bustling camps of 3000+ personnel, the roar of four engined bombers laden with high explosives or troop carriers taking scared young men to the killing fields of Europe, is a reflection on their bravery and dedication. These areas are simply peaceful now because of the men that served, lived and died here and whilst they are now gone, maybe their ghosts remain.

Part 5 - de Havilland aircraft - Salisbury Hall.

This is not a trail as such like the others, but more a trail through time. It covers an area of aviation that is certainly one of my favourites and sits on the site of the old Salisbury Hall - as mentioned in the Doomsday book.An ancient and historic place, it was to be the place where de Havilland gave birth to that 'Wooden Wonder', the Mosquito.

As a child I have recollections of having my photo taken standing beside, what seemed, the enormous undercarriage of an amazing aircraft. Yet trawling through old photos, I am unable to locate it, perhaps it has been lost in moves, packed away in a box probably never to see the light of day again. However, the memory remains and since then, I have a always looked at the Mosquito with a certain awe.

Pride and Joy - The de Havilland Mosquito

Oddly, those memories didn't match what I actually saw. I seem to remember a number of Mosquitoes standing in a an outside area, all in superb condition, whilst the latter is true, the former is somewhat different. Maybe, my memory is a little jaded or maybe as time has progressed, changes have happened and the examples I saw, or thought I saw, have long since gone. Certainly in the day, it was referred to as "The Mosquito Museum" rather than the "de Havilland Museum".

The Mosquito was of course made famous by films such as 633 Squadron and 'Mosquito Squdaron' where David McCallum played the lead part as 'Dambusters' met 633 Squadron. Some time following these films, certain parts of the aviation fraternity were outraged at the 'needless' destruction of a Mosquito by raising the undercarriage whilst taxiing and then setting fire to it. At the time, it was little more than good effects, but looking back, it was a terrible waste of a beautiful and now very rare aircraft. 


The de Havilland Museum is now a sanctuary and time capsule for all things de Havilland. If you look behind some of the sheds you will see the largest collections of Mosquito wings, body parts and wheels ever; all wanting to be restored. However, before this turns into a Mosquito requiem, lets look back through time at de Havilland.

de Havilland Heron

The museum is located down a side road and you honestly believe you are driving down someones driveway. The museum is located very close to the M25, the traffic can be seen and heard a few hundred yards away. It, like many other museums, is run by a dedicated bunch of enthusiasts who put their heart and sole into making it work and preserving the history of the de Havilland aircraft Company. On site, which is relatively small, are a collection of some 15/16 aircraft and numerous bits of others, mainly whole, some in part but they are there and viewable.

de Havilland Vampire trainer

Most are kept outside, as a result, some are sadly in relatively poor condition, but that is not to say not loved and cared for. Like many, they crave money and time spent on them, a thankless and endless task. Each one a moment in time of the company. As you walk round the site, you walk through history. A Heron, Dove, DH125, Vampire and Venom await your inspection. What I liked about this museum in particular, was that they were open. The Vampire was of course, the link to my father and his tales from his RAF days. The Heron and Dove a reminder of the 'good old days' when civilian transport was in its relative infancy. Behind these, stands the fuselage of a Comet, closed off and looking rather in need of a lick of paint, it stands majestically as father of the fleet.

de Havilland Sea Vixen with an array of weaponry

Moving round the corner, a Sea Vixen, open and accessible, has an array of weaponry beneath it, reminding us that de Havilland Company were a major game player in the once thriving industry of weapons of war. It's cockpit a mass of buttons and dials. Ladders enable you to enter and sit at the controls of the 'oddly positioned' cockpit.As a youngster building Airfix models, the Illustrious and Ark Royal were both in the collection and the Sea Vixen, along with the Buccaneers, were tiny little aircraft I use to love playing with. Seeing inside put it all this into perspective for me.

Sea Vixen 'Office'.

Sitting behind the Vixen, is a small but dedicated room named the 'Pre War aircraft Hanger'. Compered to modern, even 'T' 'T2' or 'J' Type hangers, it's not a 'hanger' but more a room. However,  within it's walls are a small collection of some of the most beautiful examples of pre-war aircraft you are ever likely to see. Also, a small section of a Horsa glider, rescued from a farm in Kent where it was used as an animal sanctuary. Also here are examples, of models and artifacts collected over the years.

Returning back to the main entrance you pass the front section of a Trident. Again steps allow you to enter and experience life on one of Britain's most famous airliners. There are also various displays including the history of the de Havilland company, it's milestones and achievements. Next door, a workshop, where you can peer in and be amazed at the work it takes to restore these beautiful aircraft. On the opposite side, lies a small but poignant memorial dedicated to all those whose flew, or maintained Mosquitoes during and after second world war. Also, an almost insignificant concrete block. On closer inspection, it is a mould use to make the fuselage of the Mosquito.

Under restoration - the Prototype 'Wooden Wonder'

Of course, the main attraction. Originally designed to look like a barn to put off marauding attackers, the main and central hanger, is the very building where the first prototype Mosquito was built all those years ago. On entering, you come face to face with a Mosquito. Superbly restored to a beautiful condition, its the pride and joy of the museum. The work that must have gone into getting it such condition must be amazing. Next to it, stands the original prototype currently under restoration. Looking at this, you can truly see how it came by it's name, the Wooden Wonder'. A mass of struts, wooden panels and metal, they are truly superb aircraft examples and a testament to the work of the de Havilland company. Also in here, and somewhat overshadowed, are a Swiss Vampire and another Vixen painstakingly dissected and standing against the wall. Of course no de Havilland collection would be complete without the little Chipmunk. How many aircrew started their flying careers in this little delight?

Chipmunk

Swiss Vampire

Yes, many of the external examples are in need of a little tender care, but this is a rare corner of aviation history. A trail of one company's history through two world wars and a cold war up to the 1960s when British Aviation turned a corner. It is a unique collection of aircraft, cared for a by a small collection of volunteers, in a small rural location next to the expanding and overpowering monster that is London

The de Havilland Mosquito, a rare and beautiful aircraft.

.

 

for more information, oening times etc see www.dehavillandmuseum.co.uk

Part 4 - Kent (1)

If Lincoln is known as 'Bomber Country' then Kent must be 'Fighter Country'. During the second World War there were numerous fighter stations here, prepared ready to defend London and the South East, all forming part of 11 Group.

Kent is Synonymous with the Battle of Britain. The summer and Autumn of 1940 saw extensive action in the skies over Kent and many an aircrew met their fate in the fields of southern England. Airfields such as Biggin Hill, Manston and Hawkinge were at the forefront of the war. Like so many of their counterparts, many of these have now gone and so we endeavour to find the remaining traces of their existence that were home to the gallant 'few'.

Hurricane sitting outside the Chapel - Biggin Hill.

This tour, visits two airfields and a museum. The first, Biggin Hill, is still an active and thriving airfield. No longer in the hands of the military, it is now an 'international airport' with commercial, business and pleasure flights frequenting the runways. Extensive development has taken over a large part of the airfield, although there are remnants of the original to be seen.

Initially as you arrive at Biggin Hill, (http://www.bigginhillairport.com/) you are greeted with the new more commercial part of the airfield. Here are the business and customer blocks along with the control tower. Further along, next to the main road through Biggin Hill and along one side of the airfield, are some of the original buildings and office blocks. Many have been utilised by the Metropolitan Police, but some have been cordoned off and remain 'as they were' in those dark days. Even the 'Royal Air Force Biggin Hill' sign is still there, serving as a reminder of it's past use; these are now believed to be used by 2427 Squadron of the Air Training Corps. Continue a little further and you have the Airfield Chapel. Here stand, as two guardians, a replica Spitfire and Hurricane aloft two poles. This building replaced the original one which burnt down and the two replicas replacing two original aircraft now gone from here. There are other buildings around the site, used for different purposes and information about them is freely available elsewhere.

On leaving Biggin Hill, wind your way back to the M25, and into the Garden of England. Just a few miles, into the Darent Valley, only 5 miles or so from Biggin Hill, is the beautiful village of Shoreham. A typical Kent chocolate box, village surrounded by super walks and fantastic scenery; it hides a little museum sitting at the back of a small tea room. Founded in 1978, the tea room is filled with local art work, depicting scenes from the time. An airfield bell and stained glass windows also tell of links to the Battle. Serving teas and refreshments (have the bacon doorstep!) its a delightful place to sit before, or after, heading into the museum.

Inside the museum (http://www.shoreham-aircraft-museum.co.uk/) is an enormous collection of crashed aircraft parts, all telling their own stories. This is not just a collection of bits and pieces though, each tells a story linked with pictures of the pilots who flew the stricken aircraft, both British and German. Several aircraft engines lay thoroughly cleaned and superbly displayed along with information sheets, plaques and stories that add a very personal touch to each and every one. Inside the small shop, is the cockpit of a Junkers 88 shot down and now in the process of restoration. It's two Junkers Jumo engines displayed inside and details of digs and with photo's adorn the walls. The museum extends it's influence, by aiming to erect a memorial to each and every pilot who fell within 10 miles of the museum, and many can be found through the museum leaflet. Like many smaller museums, it does not permit the use of photography, but it is a super little museum, run by dedicated people, located in one of the most beautiful parts of the country.


After leaving Shroreham, return to the M25 and head south toward Maidstone.
Leave the motorway and follow signs for West Malling and in particular the 'Council Offices'. On entering the site, you can see evidence of the Fighter Station, RAF West Malling (http://www.west-malling.co.uk/airbase.php5). To your right are the original buildings, now used by the  local Council. The names of those were served here (Peter Townsend, John Cunningham and Bob Braham) are immortalised in roads and some of the buildings, in particular Guy Gibson, 'Gibson Road' and 'Gibson House', which has a blue plaque.To the left are the more modern 'industrial' units. Proceed along Gibson Road towards the centre of the new housing development, and you come across a bronze statue of an airman running to his aircraft. Around him stand four marble panels, with different inscriptions including; the insignia of both RAF West Malling and the RAF. Also, the first and last aircraft to be stationed here, a Lysander and Gloster Javelin. A moving centre piece, opened on 9th June 2002. Just a short distance away is another reminder of the history, the 'Spitfire' Public house, offering Shepherd Neames ales. Although this is possibly more to do with the 'product' rather than the history! Navigating your way round the myriad of roundabouts and new roads, you will see, in amongst the houses and supermarkets, the original control tower (a listed building) that is currently under renovation (http://www.controltowers.co.uk/w-z/west_malling.htm). Standing surrounded by houses, it is soon to be a coffee shop or similar, engulfed by modern buildings and overshadowed by the supermarket, how much renovation can preserve it's historical importance? Sitting looking at the building, you wonder how many of the residents of this new 'town' will be aware of it's original importance and use?

West Malling tower under renovation 2013.

There are a wide range of places worth visiting in this part of the world. Manston and it's Spitfire Museum, Hawkinge museum, Lashenden (Headcorn) to name a few, but West Malling and Biggin Hill seem to be two ends of the spectrum in terms of flying. One is thriving and 'active' whilst the other is given an almost cursory glance, yet both, very deserving, were at the front in Britain's bid to stop the Nazi Tyranny during the Second World War.

Part 3 - Gone but not forgotten.

All over the UK and nowhere more than Lincolnshire, are a range of airfields which all played some part in the Second World War. Many sprung up hastily as demand for airbases increased following increased activity over the Skies of Europe. As D-Day approached, so too were airfields developed or modified to take new, bigger aircraft along with troops ready for the invasion.This trip visits two such airfields, both of which can be found in these lower regions of Lincolnshire.


The first, RAF Sutton Bridge, (http://www.bridgewatch.org.uk/town-reminiscences.html#airfield) served to train gunners before being sent to fight in the Battle of Britain and for bomber crews to hone their skills in defending their aircraft from the attacking Luftwaffe. It became home of the Central Gunnery School, hosting point for several squadrons for short periods before being moved on elsewhere. It is reputed to have been home to a number of 'famous' people like Guy Gibson and some of his crew. It remained open for about 30 years on and off but flying ceased in 1946.

As the majority of the buildings were temporary, there is virtually no signs of there ever being an airfield here.

Awash with poly tunnels and a large scale potato storage, the only sign of it's existence is a small memorial over looking the site next to the swing bridge that gives the area its name.

Dedicated in September 1993, the memorial, a bent propeller, stand as a reminder of the gallant men who passed through Sutton Bridge on their way to war.

Leaving Sutton Bridge along the A17 west, you pass signs to the Holbeach Range. Still used by both British and American pilots, its a difficult place to get to and there is little to see unless you have a large telephoto lens. A small 'control tower' watches over proceedings, and events are rather hit and miss, so to speak. Flags warn bystanders and dog walkers of action, but it all takes place out of sight of most people.

Carrying on along the A17 you pass Holbeach and a small cafe which holds a collections of military hardware. Of particular interest is Hunter WT680. Originally from 1429 Squadron ATC at the Defence Test & Evaluation Organisation's facility at Aberporth, she sits in a colour scheme that apparently she never had in active life. She is in remarkably good condition, considering her location.


 Follow the A151 toward the A1 and you come across Twyford Woods. A Forestry Commission wood open to the public, it houses a little known secret. It is in fact, the former airfield RAF North Witham. Opened to house Bomber Commands 7 group,  it was formed of the three triangular runway design as was usual for the time. It's main runway is 2000 yds long and was designed to cope with upward of 50 aircraft. Today the three runways still exist, in some parts, in remarkable condition, in many, overgrown with weeds and small trees. There is little in the way of buildings, most have been demolished and the remains left piled up. However, the control tower does still stand tucked away behind the trees. This is a favourite place for dog walkers, and because of it's runways, it is accessible for prams and pushchairs. However, I spoke to a few people on the day, and none of them even knew of the tower's existence.

The tower today, a mere shell

It remains a shell, open to the elements. Surrounded by tyres and in constant threat of the impending industrial complex over the fence, its future is uncertain. Stairs have been removed, but entrance has been made by piling tyres up to the door. Little can be seen from the outside, even the plaster has been removed, and so any possible personal links with the past are more than likely gone.

View from the rear

Side entrance with removed stairs

North Witham was handed over to the Americans in 1943, and was used for paratroop training purposes prior to D-Day. Made famous by a number of films, the 85th and 101st airborne left from here and the  Polish paras who landed at Arnhem were also trained here.

The view of the main runway from outside the tower

At the end of the war, North Witham was passed back to the RAF and it became a storage and disposal site until the 1950s when eventually it was finally handed back to the Forestry commission.

Standing on the wide runways staring along its length, you get an eerie sense. How many troops also stood here, spending their last few hours in this same place. You can almost hear the roar of engines, the gathering of equipment as preparations were made for the push into Normandy.

Intersection of main (left) and second runway (right)

Returning back to the car park along the Peri track, a number of dispersal pens lay overgrown but relatively intact. A sign that even here, war was never very far away.

One of the many pens.

North Witham was not a major player in the war, but, like many other airfields, it did it's bit. It served as home to many troops before going to battle, it took the fight to Nazi Germany. Standing today quiet and surreal, it is a truly remarkable place, hidden away amongst the trees as a monument to those who lived, worked and died during that turbulent time.(http://www.raf-lincolnshire.info/northwitham/northwitham.htm)

Another view along the main runway

After leaving the site, we return to the A1 and head south. I could not leave without briefly mentioning RAF Wittering. It's Harrier still standing proudly outside the main gate. All quiet now bar a handful of trucks, another major airfield destined to the bin, because of Government cutbacks and the supposed change in modern warfare.


This really has been a trip of Gone but not forgotten, or should that be forgotten but not gone!

Part 2 - Lower Lincoln and Newark

This trip also takes in the past and present. The three ports of call mentioned offer some good opportunities for viewing and photography and of course the historical aspect - the very point of the trip. This takes us across the bottom of Lincolnshire into Nottingham, land of Robin Hood, pilot training and the Newark Aviation Museum.

On the way, you can take in the delights of the RAF Cranwell Aeroflight Museum (http://www.aeroflight.co.uk/museums/cranwell-aviation-heritage-centre.htm) a small museum illustrating the history of the still active RAF Cranwell. Attached to the side of the busy A17, Cranwell is a long established airfield undertaking pilot training and there is good opportunity to see flying, passing out parades and even, I am told, the odd Jaguar taxiing under it’s own power. There are many opportunities to view aircraft, but safety can be an issue in some places.(http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/spotting/cranwell.php).

Arriving at Newark, the museum (http://www.newarkairmuseum.org/) is hidden behind trees on a small part of the old airfield, parts of which still exist. Arriving there, I am greeted by the tall tails and buildings of the old airfield. With an extensive range of cold war jets, piston aircraft and others, I am sure to be in for a great day.

With pride of place in the center of the external display, is of course the mighty Vulcan XM594. Walking below that huge triangular wing, you appreciate its ‘vastness’, stunning capability and surprisingly, how low it actually is to the ground.

Sitting beside it, is it’s payload, the ‘Bluesteel’ and other selected ordnance. Here you get a feeling of security thinking, this could actually ‘do the job’. Surrounding you are other examples from that same era, Canberra, Phantom and E.E. Lightning. Being outside, some of these models have seen better days but the long painstaking process of repainting is an ever daunting task the museum volunteers continue on with. A Meteor sits proudly nest to the Vulcan, like the many in my father’s photo album they are still relatively ‘common’ but nonetheless help to remind us of our once ‘leading the field’ heritage.

Many static cockpits adorn the area, some of which are opened at certain times of the year, an event attended by many enthusiasts and ex military alike. Along the row of airframes is the Shackleton. An aircraft that amazed me for many years, because like the Gannet and others, had a contra-rotating prop, something, as a child, I could never quite understand. How do you get two engines in that space? Before being replaced by the beautiful Nimrod, for me, this aircraft was one of the remaining reminders of prop driven aircraft with gun turrets and the last links of second world war airframes.

Across from the Shackleton stands the Jaguar, and if I’m honest, one of my favourites. These would scream across the sky often in formation and at low level. Now, bar the odd taxi run, we have to resort to ‘You tube’ for those memorable images like the motorway take off, a stunt that made the Jaguar famous.

On entering the internal exhibition, I was delighted to see two aircraft I thought I would never be able to see, the Beautiful Saab Viggen and Draken. With it’s smiling 'dopey dog’ style face, the Draken is tucked away in a darkened corner. It’s odd configuration and actual small size, giving it a cuteness lacking in other machines of war; it’s under-wing pylons, bristling with rockets, remind us that it was designed to kill. 

As a youngster making my Airfix models, I took pride in my European collection and the Viggen taking pride of place amongst them. Here was a real life Viggen, in all it’s glory right in front of me.

As I stand looking, I can’t help think that, like many modern aircraft now, it has a passing resemblance to the Typhoon. With it’s small canards and large delta wing, the shape still amazes me. The multicoloured camouflage patterns that adorn these aircraft give them a strange appeal to the onlooker. As an enthusiast, I have never seen one before, never seen one fly and will probably never will.

One story my father used to tell me was, how, once on a bus, he saw a new aircraft, guarded by armed guards and how he took a photo of it through the bus window. The immediate reaction was of course, to have a gun pointed at him, and as a serving RAF member, you would have thought it better of him to do such a thing. But thinking back, how many of us would have done the same thing! The aircraft was a Swift and here next to the Viggen, stood one fine example. How old and almost insignificant it now looks, it make you wonder why all the fuss? But, at the time, cutting edge technology I suppose!

Amongst the examples at the museum are more from the era: Gannets, Gnats, Meteors with experimental engines, Canberras and of course the Javelin and Harrier. Like many Harriers these days, it’s heart purposely taken out and displayed like a trophy. The engine, an amazing story of British technology which led the world in VTOL. The Harrier, once proud and fearsome despite it low speed, now destined to be museum pieces or scrapyard fodder. No longer shall we see a jet bow to the crowds, fly backwards or spin around it’s centre. An engineering masterpiece and a showman guaranteed to pull and wow the crowds at any air display.

Outside the hanger, standing like proud gate guards are the reminders that the cold war was two sided and that the Russians had incredible aircraft too. Another first for me, the Mig 23 and Mig 27. Two formidable aircraft that, when the iron curtain came down and better quality pictures were released from behind those closed doors, became a huge interest to many. To see the aircraft designs and acrobatic skills of Soviet pilots in fast jets made us all realise that maybe, just maybe, we were not as invincible as we thought.

Again, like the Viggen, models of such aircraft, were I thought, the only way I was ever going to be close, but here I am in between two amazing aircraft in peace time. 

Polish Mig 23 'Red 458'

Russian Mig 27 ‘Red 71’

  

Around the corner from the two Migs were, two more fine examples of this era, the Buccaneer and Sea Vixen. There are a few examples of these types scattered around the world, some flying, but most static airframes. The Vixen, with it's offset canopy, always fascinated me since my first model of the Ark Royal and its collection of these odd, twin boomed aircraft. Both these fine examples stand together as proudly today as they did all those years ago.   As with many museums, a hot drink and cake in the small, friendly shop, completes an amazing day viewing some of the worlds major cold war aircraft, not available else where. A superb day!

Addendum. Following the Waddington airshow 2013, a ‘dream’ was realised when the Swedish Memorial group flew in a Viggen to perform an incredible display including short landing and reversing. Something to be seen!