Part 7 - North West Norfolk

The American and RAF Bomber command influences extended far beyond the boundaries of the Midlands. Norfolk saw a huge influx of aircrew, staff, troops and associated hardware. Many of the airfields built in East Anglia were destined to last only a few years, basically as long as the war would last. However, like their midland counterparts, many would go on beyond that time and have a lasting effect on the locals and the landscape of Norfolk and Suffolk.

This trip goes to the area of North West Norfolk, with the boundary of Cambridgeshire. Starting on the fringes, there is a little known airfield, yet its history is one that should never be forgotten. Not only did many bomber crews leave here never to return, but not one but TWO crew members were given the highest award for bravery in the face of death. It is of course RAF Downham Market (Bexwell).

RAF Downham Market.

Located in the corner of the now A10 and A1122 little remains of the airfield bar a few technical buildings used by local industry. Originally opened in 1942 Stirlings from 218 squadron and Mosquitos from 608 squadron were based here, along with other several other units until the base closed in 1946. At it’s peak, Downham boasted seven T2 hangers, none of which survive today. The three tarmac runways were dug up to supply hardcore for the A10 but if you look carefully, odd parts of the perimeter track can been seen as roadways or paths. Certainly from the air, the general outline is partially visible. 

View toward the peri track.

At ground level, the discerning eye and a general appreciation of airfield structure and layout, suggest a presence of something more interesting. Huts, whilst in very poor condition, poke through overgrown trees and bushes and provide shelter and storage facilities for the local industry. The condition of windows and brickwork suggest that time is gradually running out for this once thriving airfield. The original fence, always a bit of a give away, rather precariously surrounds the area, and concrete roadways lead the eye to what was the perimeter track and the runways of yesteryear. The RAFs pathfinder group, 635 squadron, flew daring missions in Lancasters, and a site dedicated to the crew and personnel of the squadron can be found at http://635squadron.com/. A superb collection of photographs and personal accounts bring their memories alive.

The end of one runway, North.

Further examination reveals what would have been the location of the end of the North / South runway. Now built upon, some original buildings still remain in use albeit only just and for the time being.

Dilapidated buildings

Across the road from the airfield is Bexwell church. Here a small memorial is placed telling the stories of two heroic and brave crew members. Flight Sergeant Arthur Aaron, who whilst severely injured, unable to speak or use his right arm, managed to assist the bomb aimer in landing their stricken Stirling in the dark with the undercarriage up.He later died from his wounds. The second, Acting Squadron Leader Ian Bazalgetts, flew his stricken Lancaster as ‘master pathfinder’ to successfully mark and bomb their target. He managed with enough strength, to successfully land the plane after allowing some of his crew to bale out. Unfortunately fate dealt a terrible blow and his plane exploded, killing him. Both men were posthumously awarded the Victoria Cross for their actions.

Memorial plaque.

Whilst standing reading these dedications, two Tornados from the nearby RAF Marham, flew over, a fitting tribute, to a station originally built to serve as a satellite for the very same airfield.

 

RAF Barton Bendish.

On leaving Downham Market, travel East toward the A47 and Norwich. A few miles along, is a field, unmarked and to all intense and purposes, insignificant. It was however, believed to have been served by 26 and 268 squadrons for a brief time. Little exists about its existence or purpose other than recordings in the writings of RAF Marham personnel. Rumours state a ‘huge military (HQ) bunker’ and hard standings, but these are thought to be farmers concrete pans, abundant across the area. http://www.heritage.norfolk.gov.uk/record-details?uid=MNF20129 No physical buildings (other than pillboxes) were ever thought to have been built and the airfield it was thought, was a ‘scatter airfield’ designed to store arms from the parent airfield (in this case RAF Marham) in case of attack. No other signs or records seem to exist of the airfield. Another case of an airfield disappearing!

RAF Marham.

Hidden away.

 No journey of this nature would be complete without stopping at an active airfield. In this case RAF Marham. An abundant amount of information and photographs exist about Marham and I won’t dwell on it here, but for the enthusiast good photographs can be taken from a number of sites around the airfield, with care and caution. Currently home to the RAF’s Tornado squadron, American built F-35s are soon to be stationed here replacing the Harrier as both RAF and Naval strike capability. I will leave you to decide the merits of that one.

On leaving Marham, continue East joining the A47. Driving along the road you enter the preserve of the USAAF. A huge number of airfields exist here, both bomber and fighter. Today we visit one that opened as a satellite to Swanton Morley, June 1941 and was home to Bostons of 2 group. Station 120.

RAF Attlebridge (USAAF. Station 120)

Hard runways were not built here until 1943, and in March 1944, the airfield

Bomb shelters hidden in the shrub.

became home to the 466^th Bomb group operating the 784th Bombardment Squadron (code T9), the 785^th Bombardment Squadron (code2U), the 786th Bombardment Squadron (code U8) and the 787th Bombardment Squadron (code 6L). Blenheims, Bostons, Mitchells and Liberators all played a role from this airfield over a period of time. It passed hands between the American and British forces on several occasions as units moved on elsewhere. The main runways and perimeter track of the airfield are very much evident and in good state. The three extensive concrete tracks now used to store turkeys. As this is private ground, access is not permitted, but good views across the

tracks can be gained from the road. There were minimal visible signs of buildings, but the control tower was extended and used at one point for the management of the site. http://www.controltowers.co.uk/a/attlebridge.htm More careful probing may reveal more than broken huts and bomb shelters laying waste amongst the trees. 

Looking along one of the runways.

It is possible to drive round the entire site, being only feet from the perimeter track at any time. Amongst these trees evidence can be seen of the airfields outer ring. Odd derelict buildings lay swamped by vegetation and trees. At entrances to the site,

good views along the runways give perspective of the size of the place. Hard standings and concrete pans lay on either side of the road, now used to store sugar beet and other produce from the local farmer.

As with other sites, its easy to picture a bustling base, aircraft rumbling along preparing to take off on what may be their last flight. Where man once stood, turkeys now breed, a sense of irony if you dig deep enough. Driving round, located at the south western point between the ends of the two longest runways, is a memorial dedicated to the personnel of the airfield who served and gave their lives.

A well kept memorial, it portrays a Liberator of the 466^th, 2^nd Division, 8^th Air force, the ‘Flying deck’ and the badges of each of the four bombardment squadrons. It tells of the 231 combat missions over Normandy, France, the Rhineland and the Ardennes. Dedicated in 1992, 50 years after the end of hostilities, a little reminder of those brave souls, whose home is now a turkey farm and who gave

Memorial to the 466th.

their all from this small part of Norfolk. After leaving Attlebridge, we move to a more recent closure and one of the RAF’s biggest airfields. RAF Coltishall. 

RAF Coltishall.

Built in 1939, Coltishall was originally designed as bomber base, but turned to house fighters soon after it’s creation. Used by 66 squadron, it played a major part in the Battle of Britain. Being home later to night fighter Defiants and Mosquitos, a role it continued well into the cold war with Venoms and famously the Jaguars. Again there is much information about Coltishall around and it’s history is both

Station badge.

interesting and well documented. At present, it is in generally good condition, although buildings are starting to deteriorate and nature is fighting a hard battle. The government have since opened a prison on the site (HMP Bure) and access is not permitted, (the man on the gate is very helpful and polite), but views can be found from various points around the field if persistence is strong enough.From one vantage point near the top end of the runway, you can see the runway lights, distant buildings and structures that form the airfield blocks. Standing by the crash gate, looking down the length of the runway, you can imagine the Jaguars and fast jets being practice scrambled and roaring off into the skies of Britain in search of invading soviet aircraft. I remember well seeing Jaguars and Phantoms racing across our skies, but at Coltishall it’s a sight I won’t unfortunately ever get to see. The Control tower now stands idle, overlooking the single runway, whilst further up you can see the main hanger and admin block (I believe) with the proud lettering ‘Royal Air Force Coltishall’ still prevalent. Along side are the badges of some of the squadrons based there. The front of the base used to be dignified, grand and over seen by an E.E. Lightning. Now they are all gone, even the guard room is falling into disrepair. A small metal sign says ‘Welcome to former RAF Coltishall’ as poor recognition of Britain’s flying history.

At the northern end of the runway, just out side the perimeter, is a small chapel dedicated to the people who gave their lives whilst at Coltishall. A small, peaceful place, that holds some surprises. Within the military headstones, there are several German headstones. Crew members shot down  during those terrible years of the Second World War. A stark reminder that causalities occurred on both sides, and that their ‘young men’ died over foreign shores as well as ours. 

I found this 25 minute video, made to celebrate the history of RAF Coltishall, I thought you may like it, or even know someone in it. http://www.eafa.org.uk/catalogue/209623

From Coltishall, there are many more places worth a visit, within  a stones through numerous bases still lay dormant, regrettably, all quiet and fighting nature rather than some foe from far across the waters. Gradually our flying heritage is being lost, and it would seem, that in this part of the world at least, they are being ‘preserved’ through secondary use. A fate better  than total decay.

Footnote: from here, I also visited the City of Norwich Aviation Museum based on the outskirts of Horsham St Faith (Now Norwich airport) itself a former RAF base. A delightful little museum with many relics, pictures and stories from around the area. It features many of the bases and units mentioned above and is well worth a visit, http://www.cnam.co.uk/ . There is also a second museum, Norfolk and Suffolk Air Museum within easy travel from here http://www.aviationmuseum.net/ , it too houses aircraft from around the area and is well worth a visit. 

More pictures from the above are supplemented on Flickr search for 'halfpintpictures'