Part 3 - Gone but not forgotten.

All over the UK and nowhere more than Lincolnshire, are a range of airfields which all played some part in the Second World War. Many sprung up hastily as demand for airbases increased following increased activity over the Skies of Europe. As D-Day approached, so too were airfields developed or modified to take new, bigger aircraft along with troops ready for the invasion.This trip visits two such airfields, both of which can be found in these lower regions of Lincolnshire.


The first, RAF Sutton Bridge, (http://www.bridgewatch.org.uk/town-reminiscences.html#airfield) served to train gunners before being sent to fight in the Battle of Britain and for bomber crews to hone their skills in defending their aircraft from the attacking Luftwaffe. It became home of the Central Gunnery School, hosting point for several squadrons for short periods before being moved on elsewhere. It is reputed to have been home to a number of 'famous' people like Guy Gibson and some of his crew. It remained open for about 30 years on and off but flying ceased in 1946.

As the majority of the buildings were temporary, there is virtually no signs of there ever being an airfield here.

Awash with poly tunnels and a large scale potato storage, the only sign of it's existence is a small memorial over looking the site next to the swing bridge that gives the area its name.

Dedicated in September 1993, the memorial, a bent propeller, stand as a reminder of the gallant men who passed through Sutton Bridge on their way to war.

Leaving Sutton Bridge along the A17 west, you pass signs to the Holbeach Range. Still used by both British and American pilots, its a difficult place to get to and there is little to see unless you have a large telephoto lens. A small 'control tower' watches over proceedings, and events are rather hit and miss, so to speak. Flags warn bystanders and dog walkers of action, but it all takes place out of sight of most people.

Carrying on along the A17 you pass Holbeach and a small cafe which holds a collections of military hardware. Of particular interest is Hunter WT680. Originally from 1429 Squadron ATC at the Defence Test & Evaluation Organisation's facility at Aberporth, she sits in a colour scheme that apparently she never had in active life. She is in remarkably good condition, considering her location.


 Follow the A151 toward the A1 and you come across Twyford Woods. A Forestry Commission wood open to the public, it houses a little known secret. It is in fact, the former airfield RAF North Witham. Opened to house Bomber Commands 7 group,  it was formed of the three triangular runway design as was usual for the time. It's main runway is 2000 yds long and was designed to cope with upward of 50 aircraft. Today the three runways still exist, in some parts, in remarkable condition, in many, overgrown with weeds and small trees. There is little in the way of buildings, most have been demolished and the remains left piled up. However, the control tower does still stand tucked away behind the trees. This is a favourite place for dog walkers, and because of it's runways, it is accessible for prams and pushchairs. However, I spoke to a few people on the day, and none of them even knew of the tower's existence.

The tower today, a mere shell

It remains a shell, open to the elements. Surrounded by tyres and in constant threat of the impending industrial complex over the fence, its future is uncertain. Stairs have been removed, but entrance has been made by piling tyres up to the door. Little can be seen from the outside, even the plaster has been removed, and so any possible personal links with the past are more than likely gone.

View from the rear

Side entrance with removed stairs

North Witham was handed over to the Americans in 1943, and was used for paratroop training purposes prior to D-Day. Made famous by a number of films, the 85th and 101st airborne left from here and the  Polish paras who landed at Arnhem were also trained here.

The view of the main runway from outside the tower

At the end of the war, North Witham was passed back to the RAF and it became a storage and disposal site until the 1950s when eventually it was finally handed back to the Forestry commission.

Standing on the wide runways staring along its length, you get an eerie sense. How many troops also stood here, spending their last few hours in this same place. You can almost hear the roar of engines, the gathering of equipment as preparations were made for the push into Normandy.

Intersection of main (left) and second runway (right)

Returning back to the car park along the Peri track, a number of dispersal pens lay overgrown but relatively intact. A sign that even here, war was never very far away.

One of the many pens.

North Witham was not a major player in the war, but, like many other airfields, it did it's bit. It served as home to many troops before going to battle, it took the fight to Nazi Germany. Standing today quiet and surreal, it is a truly remarkable place, hidden away amongst the trees as a monument to those who lived, worked and died during that turbulent time.(http://www.raf-lincolnshire.info/northwitham/northwitham.htm)

Another view along the main runway

After leaving the site, we return to the A1 and head south. I could not leave without briefly mentioning RAF Wittering. It's Harrier still standing proudly outside the main gate. All quiet now bar a handful of trucks, another major airfield destined to the bin, because of Government cutbacks and the supposed change in modern warfare.


This really has been a trip of Gone but not forgotten, or should that be forgotten but not gone!

Part 2 - Lower Lincoln and Newark

This trip also takes in the past and present. The three ports of call mentioned offer some good opportunities for viewing and photography and of course the historical aspect - the very point of the trip. This takes us across the bottom of Lincolnshire into Nottingham, land of Robin Hood, pilot training and the Newark Aviation Museum.

On the way, you can take in the delights of the RAF Cranwell Aeroflight Museum (http://www.aeroflight.co.uk/museums/cranwell-aviation-heritage-centre.htm) a small museum illustrating the history of the still active RAF Cranwell. Attached to the side of the busy A17, Cranwell is a long established airfield undertaking pilot training and there is good opportunity to see flying, passing out parades and even, I am told, the odd Jaguar taxiing under it’s own power. There are many opportunities to view aircraft, but safety can be an issue in some places.(http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/spotting/cranwell.php).

Arriving at Newark, the museum (http://www.newarkairmuseum.org/) is hidden behind trees on a small part of the old airfield, parts of which still exist. Arriving there, I am greeted by the tall tails and buildings of the old airfield. With an extensive range of cold war jets, piston aircraft and others, I am sure to be in for a great day.

With pride of place in the center of the external display, is of course the mighty Vulcan XM594. Walking below that huge triangular wing, you appreciate its ‘vastness’, stunning capability and surprisingly, how low it actually is to the ground.

Sitting beside it, is it’s payload, the ‘Bluesteel’ and other selected ordnance. Here you get a feeling of security thinking, this could actually ‘do the job’. Surrounding you are other examples from that same era, Canberra, Phantom and E.E. Lightning. Being outside, some of these models have seen better days but the long painstaking process of repainting is an ever daunting task the museum volunteers continue on with. A Meteor sits proudly nest to the Vulcan, like the many in my father’s photo album they are still relatively ‘common’ but nonetheless help to remind us of our once ‘leading the field’ heritage.

Many static cockpits adorn the area, some of which are opened at certain times of the year, an event attended by many enthusiasts and ex military alike. Along the row of airframes is the Shackleton. An aircraft that amazed me for many years, because like the Gannet and others, had a contra-rotating prop, something, as a child, I could never quite understand. How do you get two engines in that space? Before being replaced by the beautiful Nimrod, for me, this aircraft was one of the remaining reminders of prop driven aircraft with gun turrets and the last links of second world war airframes.

Across from the Shackleton stands the Jaguar, and if I’m honest, one of my favourites. These would scream across the sky often in formation and at low level. Now, bar the odd taxi run, we have to resort to ‘You tube’ for those memorable images like the motorway take off, a stunt that made the Jaguar famous.

On entering the internal exhibition, I was delighted to see two aircraft I thought I would never be able to see, the Beautiful Saab Viggen and Draken. With it’s smiling 'dopey dog’ style face, the Draken is tucked away in a darkened corner. It’s odd configuration and actual small size, giving it a cuteness lacking in other machines of war; it’s under-wing pylons, bristling with rockets, remind us that it was designed to kill. 

As a youngster making my Airfix models, I took pride in my European collection and the Viggen taking pride of place amongst them. Here was a real life Viggen, in all it’s glory right in front of me.

As I stand looking, I can’t help think that, like many modern aircraft now, it has a passing resemblance to the Typhoon. With it’s small canards and large delta wing, the shape still amazes me. The multicoloured camouflage patterns that adorn these aircraft give them a strange appeal to the onlooker. As an enthusiast, I have never seen one before, never seen one fly and will probably never will.

One story my father used to tell me was, how, once on a bus, he saw a new aircraft, guarded by armed guards and how he took a photo of it through the bus window. The immediate reaction was of course, to have a gun pointed at him, and as a serving RAF member, you would have thought it better of him to do such a thing. But thinking back, how many of us would have done the same thing! The aircraft was a Swift and here next to the Viggen, stood one fine example. How old and almost insignificant it now looks, it make you wonder why all the fuss? But, at the time, cutting edge technology I suppose!

Amongst the examples at the museum are more from the era: Gannets, Gnats, Meteors with experimental engines, Canberras and of course the Javelin and Harrier. Like many Harriers these days, it’s heart purposely taken out and displayed like a trophy. The engine, an amazing story of British technology which led the world in VTOL. The Harrier, once proud and fearsome despite it low speed, now destined to be museum pieces or scrapyard fodder. No longer shall we see a jet bow to the crowds, fly backwards or spin around it’s centre. An engineering masterpiece and a showman guaranteed to pull and wow the crowds at any air display.

Outside the hanger, standing like proud gate guards are the reminders that the cold war was two sided and that the Russians had incredible aircraft too. Another first for me, the Mig 23 and Mig 27. Two formidable aircraft that, when the iron curtain came down and better quality pictures were released from behind those closed doors, became a huge interest to many. To see the aircraft designs and acrobatic skills of Soviet pilots in fast jets made us all realise that maybe, just maybe, we were not as invincible as we thought.

Again, like the Viggen, models of such aircraft, were I thought, the only way I was ever going to be close, but here I am in between two amazing aircraft in peace time. 

Polish Mig 23 'Red 458'

Russian Mig 27 ‘Red 71’

  

Around the corner from the two Migs were, two more fine examples of this era, the Buccaneer and Sea Vixen. There are a few examples of these types scattered around the world, some flying, but most static airframes. The Vixen, with it's offset canopy, always fascinated me since my first model of the Ark Royal and its collection of these odd, twin boomed aircraft. Both these fine examples stand together as proudly today as they did all those years ago.   As with many museums, a hot drink and cake in the small, friendly shop, completes an amazing day viewing some of the worlds major cold war aircraft, not available else where. A superb day!

Addendum. Following the Waddington airshow 2013, a ‘dream’ was realised when the Swedish Memorial group flew in a Viggen to perform an incredible display including short landing and reversing. Something to be seen!

Part 1 - Lincolnshire.

Lincolnshire is known as ‘Bomber Country’. Airfields once littered the county and many have now gone, turned to agriculture, housing developments or industrial sites. The names of those who served there linger in street names, Spitfire Way, Lancaster Ave etc. In some respects, it brings me closer to my father’s experiences as he was based here at the end of his service. He talks fondly of Lincoln and stations such as RAF Digby. His memory a little jaded now, hangs on to snippets of events in his life.

So my trip around the area included places both old and new and will be quite a trip down memory lane for some.

Driving north through the Lincolnshire fens, I head toward Coningsby, one of the few active fighter airfields left. A large open expanse with excellent viewing facilities around it (http://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/spotting/coningsby.php) . It is nestled on the edge of the village where extensive RAF housing can be seen. The designated viewing area is at the end of the runway and offers a great opportunity for photos and plane spotting. There seems to be a hardened crew of enthusiast permanently perched here with enormous telephoto lenses. A short distance toward the village finds the BBMF museum with its well stocked shop, super little museum and of course tours through the hanger of the famous BBMF.

 

Taking yourself back, round the airfield, diverting to a closed crash gate, you can see an EE Lightning perched in one corner. Match this with the Phantom at the main gate and you have a good idea of previous residents of the airfield. Moving on to the other end of the runway, will place you nicely for photographing approaching aircraft as they come over the road, gear down and at a speed slow enough to get a half decent picture from - if you don’t have all the fancy equipment adoring the necks of the ladder clad (no offence) professionals that is.

VC10s flying over Coningsby during the tour of Britain day prior to retirement of the type.

On a good day, you may get to see the Typhoon display team or even visiting aircraft. Have a warm day, sandwiches and camera and set your self up for superb viewing and great day out.

Leaving Coningsby, head toward the old Woodall Spa airfield just up the road. The signs are all but gone. I found one showing RAF Woodall, pointing to a quarry. If there is anything there, I do not know, but the airfield to all intents and purpose is gone.  The Thorpe Camp museum (http://www.thorpecamp.org.uk/) has a EE Lightning sat outside along with the propeller from a crashed Lancaster as a memorial. Inside old huts are artefacts and stories of life in the area. When I arrived they were closed but it looked interesting and worth a visit. Driving past here toward Woodall Spa, you pass a Two-seat hunter on the right. Bought by a farmer for a restoration project, it seems to have been left and is deteriorating in the open. Many parts are missing and / or damaged. Research has shown that it is in fact made up of two Hunters joined together and not an original. This aside, it acts as a reminder of the areas aviation history.

 

As you enter the village of Woodall Spa, you are greeted by the ‘best towns’ award.  A beautiful little village with a crossroads at the heart. Adjacent to this is a small car park and the famous Dambusters memorial, depicting a breached dam. The names of the crew adorn the side, reminding us of those brave men who sacrificed themselves for this controversial raid. Whatever you think, it is a moving piece and you cannot but stand in silence contemplating it’s significance. For those requiring a small break, there is a cake shop in the village which I have been informed, sells the most amazing cakes. It also sells a range of aviation literature so you can browse and eat all in one place.

Further up the road away from the memorial, you pass a long leafy road with a sports centre on your left. On your right after the woods, is the sign for Petwood Hotel (http://www.petwood.co.uk). A formidable building, used by Guy Gibson and his crews as a mess hall whilst based at the nearby airfield. In the Squadron bar, I am told there are pictures and memorabilia of those times, which you can look at whist having your afternoon tea.

On leaving Woodall Spa, you are heading back toward Coningsby, turning east toward the old airfield of RAF East Kirkby.

The Lincoln countryside unfolds before you, and you can just imagine (in-between the sounds of jet engine) the Merlins, Pratt and Witney’s and so on, rumbling above you. Here is a relatively little known airfield, where a real story has unfolded. A taxiable Lancaster ‘Just Jane’sits proudly in it’s hanger, next to a Dakota.  Purchased by two brothers, ‘Just Jane’ regularly taxis carrying fare paying passengers around the airfield. The long term project is to return her to flight giving two airworthy Lancasters in this country – what a sight to be hold. Around the aircraft are the stark reminders of the darker side of aviation. Bits taken from crashed aircraft along with photos, personal artefacts recovered from the sites, and a range of military vehicles all add to the historical content of the trip.  

The museum (http://www.lincsaviation.co.uk/ ) is very well laid out. A good, clear guide tells you about the history of the site, the individual buildings (which are superbly renovated) and all the displays which are housed in huts. It even points out the bullet hole in the flag pole from the maurding German night fighter. Many of the displays were new to me and a very pleasant surprise to see, considering the nature of the trip. The watch tower, one of the best preserved in this country, has mannequins, sounds and artefacts set out as it would have been when waiting for ‘the boys’ to return from one of their war time sorties.

After sampling refreshments in the lovely little café, I headed back home, through Boston, leaving bomber country behind and some fantastic memories of a great day out.  

 

Introduction.

These series of trails are the musings of an aviation enthusiast with too much time on their hands. I simply have a love of aviation (in particular military) having been introduced by my father’s stories of his time in the Royal Air Force during the 1950s.

I grew up in the 60s and 70s when British aircraft ruled the world, fast jets adorned the skies over Britain which, at the end of the Cold War, had been ready to tackle, head on, the threat of Soviet Russia and her allies.

Like many children of that era, I spent many an hour perched at the end of runways, peering through fences, often with armed guards loitering close by, and generally staring skyward. I lived nearby to what was the British Aerospace development at Bitteswell, Leicestershire. Standing at my parent’s bedroom window, I could see Vulcans and the like circling following modification work. I developed a knack for locating disused airfields through the car window, where I would drift off into my own little world, visualising aircraft taxiing and lifting off into the skies above worn torn Britain.

As a child I dreamt of fast jets and soaring above the clouds in formation. My brother and I would spend our holidays building complex cockpits between our beds, drawing each and every instrument using cockpit photos and magazine articles as guides. Sheets would form the roof, shoe boxes throttles, and old headphones as radios. We lived the fantasy, and for a few hours a day we were pilots - we were living the dream.

Unfortunately, the dream never turned into reality. But my love of aviation never died. My dreams of what it must have been like continue on, and my frustration at the state of old airfields and their deteriorating significance to our heritage, is stifled by the understanding of developmental needs and the continuing high maintenance costs they require.

I feel saddened by old aircraft rotting in farmer's fields, images of bone yards, vandalised airframes and aircraft discarded like unwanted pets in the rain. These are, in many cases, the reminders of what was the sacrifice of the many thousands of men and women who gave their lives in war time, flying over foreign lands, knowing that at any minute, their time may be up. They deserve more. They deserve better.

I have an envy of those who have given up their time to help preserve this heritage of this fantastic aviation country, I admire their dedication, their determination and above all, the fact they can sit in the cockpit of an aircraft and do what I dreamt of for so many years as a child. To them, I thank you.

I am not an expert; I do not pretend to be. I decided to write these trails based on my experiences, adding in links where I could. They are not conclusive, and factually may not be reliable. They have been created in my spare time when I have taken my self back to the ‘good old days’ and are purely to share my thoughts and experiences.

If you like them, great let me know, leave a message. So, why not join me on a nostalgic journey through the second world war and beyond. It's great to have you along.

Thank you.